3:::::Analysis on colours of Garcons

“I’m designing for a woman to be able to feel confident. We must break away from conventional forms of dress for the new women of today. We need a strong new image, not to revisit the past.”
By Kawakubo

Since of this design objective, or philosophy, Kawakubo can be categorized as avant garde designer in this century. Her first, second and third collections in 80s were totally “in black” and “shapeless” which greatly contradict with the design in that decade. The talent of her on using black was no doubt one of the best in the fashion history.

In march 1988, she declared resolutely that red is black, which splashes the blouse materials were drawn to reveal splashes of vivid colors of the later collection. According to The New York Times Editor Bernadine Morris, “Kawakubo could get away from black for long enough to come up with “ a blast of color, vibrant yellow, fuschia royal blue, and apple green.” In Ms kawakubo’s and Mr Morris declarations, they are strongly persuasive that kawakubo could use any color to replace the role of black. And up to now, her colorful collections are both appreciated by the fashion- forward people and keep them on chasing the trend she lead.. Great Success was further proved by the wide coverage of press and fashion magazine cover.

In year from 2000 to 2009, Kawakubo and her apprentice Junya Watanabe (who became the design director of Comme Des Garcons) continues to perform the magic of using color in the collections.

With the following comparison on color combination season by season of Comme Des Garcons, patterns of utilizing colors are found.

1. Nearly whole black or white (black and white) collection spaced in-between the vivid color collection season by season.

2. Triad Scheme
–Mainly base on the primary color and do further modifications.
– Bright red are usually found in the collections.
-- Military Green are commonly found in the collections

3. Specific color family distribution
i) Achromatic + high value colors
ii) Achromatic + high chromatic accent color
iii) Achromatic
iv) High Chromatic colors family
v) Low value, low chromatic color (special case * interpret in later paragraph)

Reasons for using the patterns:
1.Pattern one
Nearly whole black or white (black and white) collection spaced in-between the vivid color collection in between the season.
- As kawakubo statement, simple color and the use of achromatic colors are used to highlight the hard silhouettes and texture of the outfit; which are with the finest tailoring and complex structure. Also, since the monotone of the color, the wearer’s personalities as well as the brand image (act as a boy) can be more easily distinguished.
- The signature tones of the brand; it is more easy for fans to wear, mix and match; in other term is rather much ‘user friendly’ and Commercial “best seller” on colors.

2. Triad system
In Comme Des Garcons collection, the triad system are usually used on two aspects:
Red, Yellow& Blue / Orange, Purple & Green. The first aspect are widely use in the collection with vivid colors. Even the triad colors of the collections are modified on their intensities and value, It is not difficult to find the pattern in the sets, esp. on 08S/S and 06S/S collections. Red, yellow and blue in high chroma make the color of the outfit “jumping”, and create attractive and unexpected feeling to the audience.
And in the color trend of Comme Des Garcons, it is not difficult to find the use of this system, but it always happens with Achromatic.

The contradiction of hues and the high chromatic schemes on outfits and makeup give a sense of humor to the audience highlighting the avant garde concept of Ms Kawakubo. The brave of using such brilliant colors in collections make the styling funny, even these whole set satirical colored outfits cannot be “easy-carry” to the customers.

Among the triad system, two colors are always appear in Comme Des Garcons collections. One is red, and the other if military green. In the comparison chart, obviously red appear in Rei’s collection frequently in different values and intensity. Our group believes that she wants to demonstrate the eastern art and her Japanese cultural passion to the audience. In Japanese cultural, “red” equals to sun which gives great energy to the earth. It is energetic and powerful’ creating motivations to us. To our observation, she wants to show this passionate feeling to the audience. And the military greens are always being found in her collections. At first we think this is the illustration of Japanese militarilism, however, when we think thoroughly, this military color was not symbol the war to the world, but the war against old rules and outdated mind. This is a highlighting of the brand’s breaking through design philosophy.
Among all the specific uses on color combination, high chromatic colors as accent colors are significant in Comme Des Garcons design. This method matched with the fashion trend in this century which hoping to create something young. The confidence of using colors in high chroma maintains the humor of the collection; also, it symbolizes the bravery, active and breaking through characteristics of the “new women”.